Ever feel guilty for enjoying a delicious meal and not just for the
calorie intake? Fear not,
GQ magazine has come up with a national
Top 10 list for places to enjoy a meal that is both ethical and
delicious. An Ann Arbor-based eatery is at the top of the list and a
farm in Chelsea is in the thick of it, too.
Excerpt:With a few glorious
exceptions, eating ethically for a month, as I did for this month's
GQ,
was an exercise in frustration. One illuminating moment took place in a
coffee shop in Boston: My café au lait was handed to me in a disposable
take-out cup, whereas everybody else in the place was drinking coffee
from genuine porcelain cups. I wanted mine in a real cup, too. Not only
is there less waste, the need to wash the cup creates a job for an
entry-level employee, possibly someone with a family to feed...
When I ate in restaurants run by chefs committed to ethical eating,
or in the homes of people who feel the same way, dining was a joy, not
simply because the products were better, but also because the people
doing the cooking were inevitably committed to preparing wonderful
meals. I'm not talking about dining with gastronomic outcasts, such as
disciples of macrobiotics. (You've seen them. They endure a colorless
life of brown food and brown clothing.) People devoted single-mindedly
to ethical-eating causes invariably dine poorly, whereas those who make
ethical eating a component of a higher dining ideal tend to be entirely
admirable—plus well-fed. When I drove through rural Maine, I stopped at
Chase's Daily in Belfast for a bowl of made-from-scratch vegetable soup,
followed by a preposterously rich chocolate meringue tart, the kind
that can easily sustain a person meatlessly through a winter New England
day. Chase's Daily is part-restaurant, part-bakery, part-farmstand, and
almost incidentally vegetarian. It's not a health-food
restaurant—butter and cream abound. It offers the sort of ethical eating
I came to admire on my travels, devoid of the pretentiousness and dogma
that so often curses admirable causes.
Here then are my top ten
ethical dishes, some from restaurants, some from homes or farms, all
enjoyed earlier this year during my ethical-eating travels through
America.
1. Brioche-Crusted Walleye, Grange Kitchen & Bar,
Ann Arbor, MI
We northeasterners hardly ever get to eat freshwater
fish—okay, maybe now and then somebody slips us a trout. This filet of
walleye showed me why the Great Lakes deserve to be called great. The
flesh was sole-like, and the crust offered a light, sweet accent.
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the rest of the story
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